A surfers' quiver is the mechanics tool box, you need the right board for the right job. Having the right tool for any job is make or break. Surfing is no different, having the right board for the given conditions and your abilities can be the difference in catching 0 waves or 20.
When choosing the right board volume is your friend. Volume is the measurement of how much floatation the board has. Especially when learning to surf, the more volume the better. It will make paddling easier and give you more stability when your riding the wave. But it doesn't stop there, you need to know about shapes, height, and the fundamental behind it. And that's a lot. So instead, here we will talk about the different styles of waves and the recommended surfboard for the most fun.
To the average person, a wave is a wave, same same but different. However, for a surfer, each wave is unique and every beach has its own style of wave. Even the same wave at the same spot will change hour by hour. Wind, tide, swell height and direction will all affect the wave quality of the surf. As a beginner, you need to know how to read wave, so you can surf based on your ability and pick your very first surfboard.
A beginner wave is normally a slow breaking smaller wave. Any surf spot can be great for beginners. Most of the time you would want to surf the break on a high tide with a smaller swell, this will make it more fun and easier.
The MINI Twin and Pocket Knife both are higher volume boards, perfect for softer flatter waves. Twin fins offer a maneuverable and fast ride to surfers. Their quickness and ability to make sharp turns makes them a great choice for small conditions, but they can also be used in medium sized clean surf.The low rocker of the Pocket Knife creates speed in small conditions while maintaining maneuverability.
Best Beginner Waves in Bali:
- Kuta Beach
- Old Mans
- Padang Padang (Baby Padang),
Point Breaks are known as some of the best waves on earth. A point break can work with a sand bottom or reef. Breaking along a headland or down a stretch of beach instead of towards the beach. This leads to point breaks being the longest waves in the world. Point breaks can also be mellow and great for beginners or hollow dangerous waves over shallow sharp reef. Some can even be both depending on tide and size of the swell. The recommended surfboards are DHD Skeleton Key & Pyzel Pyzalien.
The Skeleton Key is a great board for slightly bigger and faster waves. Also, it offers a 5 fin set up and gives you the option to switch between a quad fin set up and a traditional thruster. It carries more volume and width through the nose which gives you more speed and carry though the racey sections.
The Pyzalien can take the place of any high-performance shortboard. The Pyzalien is fast and easy to paddle while still being loose on the backfoot giving you the ability to perform tight turns in the pocket of the wave.The board has quick speed from take-off and great responsiveness. The outline has a fuller nose and wider tail which keeps the board very fast, while increasing the control and allowing for easier rail to rail transitions at high speed.
Best Point Breaks in Bali
Recommended Surfboards : Pyzel Padillac
Big wave surfing is the next level surfing. We are not talking about a 10 foot wave we are talking big! 20 feet and bigger, really big waves! For the average surfer, we don’t want anything to do with this. It’s more about survival than about surfing. Big wave surfing is a league all its own. And you need Pyzel Padillac to beat the wave.
Like the name implies, this board is built to paddle fast and easy, with extra thickness and a fuller outline than most standard guns so you can catch and ride bigger waves with confidence and ease. It has a clean, flowing rocker, and a light vee bottom with double concaves to give you speed and quick turning, while still maintaining control in heavy surf...It comes as a quad, for both speed and maneuverability, and can handle anything the ocean throws at you.
Best Big Waves in Bali
- Padang Padang
Recommended Surfboards : Pyzel Radius
Beach breaks are exactly what you would think, a wave that breaks over a sand bottom. Most of the time they are fast and hollow not leaving much room for error. Sand is always moving on the seabed, which means it is constantly changing. But a surfer can get lucky and the sand banks can hang around producing fun playful surf before the currents change affecting where the sand rests.
Jordy Smith's choice for best board in 2017's Stab In The Dark. The Radius is designed to be ridden fast and loose in above average to great surf, the Radius has a smooth, medium/high bottom rocker for easy turning and a single concave to add lift and drive. The gentle hip in the outline keeps it lively and sharp, while adding drive. The Radius is as high performance as we go, so not the best choice for beginners, but if you are looking to elevate your surfing up another level this board will get you there.
Best Beach Break in Bali
- Echo Beach
Recommended Surfboards : Pyzel Ghost
Reef breaks are a favorite for most all surfers. Most of the world’s best waves are reef breaks. At reef breaks the waves break over a reef shelf or a rock bottom. Having a permanent seafloor offers a more consistently shaped wave changing with swell direction, tide, and wind. But with the best waves also come the biggest dangers, reefs are hard, sharp, and very unforgiving when you come in contact after a wipeout.
Originally designed for performance in hollower, more powerful types of waves. The thickness is pushed forward, which helps with getting you into waves easily, and kept the tail and rails thinned out to help hold through barrels and turns at speed. The rocker is med/low through the front half to get you into waves easily and pick up speed quickly. The rear end has plenty of rocker curve for turning control and a snappy responsiveness.
Single concave runs through the entire bottom, with a double concave set inside, which equals speed and lift both on a rail and over flat spots while allowing for quick rail-to-rail transitions. The Ghost's combination of rocker and concave makes for high performance handling through a healthy mix of sensitivity and control.
Best Reef Break in Bali
- Padang Padang
- Green Bowl
- Kuta Reef
- Airport Rights
Recommended Surfboards : Pyzel Shadow
In this article we talked about the different types of waves and the recommended board for each wave. However, when traveling or when starting to surf owning 10 different boards doesn't make sense. Luckily there is one board that is almost perfect for all conditions and can handle everything you can throw at it.
The Shadow is designed to give all surfers the advantages of a wider, forward outlined type of board, but in a sleek, High Performance package. It has a gentle hip for added sensitivity and looseness, and the squash tail is pulled in a touch to tighten the turning radius and improve vertical surfing capability. Tail rocker and bottom concave remain similar to the Phantom, already proven to work well in everyday conditions around the world.